The Lofoten Islands and Narvik- "Midnight Sun" - June 2019
Exploring The Lofoten Islands. Sat 15 to Sat 29 June 2019
My 'Varsity' friend Mark Tyndall has generously included me in the roster of Mascotte's crew for 10 years. These two weeks exploring the Lofoten Islands was my final, and best, experience of classic boat sailing. The Lofotens are a chain of islands that curve south east from the Norwegian mainland, above the Artic Circle. The fjords and mountains, the small villages, the empty bays surrounded by snow capped peaks, the light and vistas, provided an ever changing and ever impressive environment. I have enjoyed re-living it as I set out the record of the voyage of 366 miles.
My 'Varsity' friend Mark Tyndall has generously included me in the roster of Mascotte's crew for 10 years. These two weeks exploring the Lofoten Islands was my final, and best, experience of classic boat sailing. The Lofotens are a chain of islands that curve south east from the Norwegian mainland, above the Artic Circle. The fjords and mountains, the small villages, the empty bays surrounded by snow capped peaks, the light and vistas, provided an ever changing and ever impressive environment. I have enjoyed re-living it as I set out the record of the voyage of 366 miles.
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Above: Andy Oliver (The Journeyman Balladeer) doing his watch at the helm on a 8 hour, close-hauled run (with main reefs) due west out of Narvik. A bold load of sail can set up an average 7-8kts in these conditions. With over 50 tonnes of cutter offsetting the press of sails, this is an exciting helm.
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Above: This is the 50 mile sail out to Lofoten from Bliksvaer, near Bødø. The 00:01 to 02:00 watch. The small hours of the morning under the 'midnight sun'. The wind gradually strengthened, adding to the pleasure.
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THE CREW: There were 6 crew for the first week. Mascotte has no power winches: its all manually worked ropes. The stronger the wind the more muscle is needed when maneuvering, even tacking. Hoisting the main needs 4 crew. However, when Mascotte is pre-positioning she is often run by a 'professional' crew of 3. At Narvik 2 members disembarked, and 1 joined. 4 members did both weeks. Crew are pictured below, in order of sailing ability (my judgement, but what do I know!?). POINT to a picture to read the caption. CLICK to enlarge.
DAY 2: Bødø to Vaeroy, via Bliksvaer. 58 miles. A very sunny day, with calm airs. Motored the 8 miles from Bødø to Bliksvaer Island. Dropped anchor and went ashore. Lovely island, well established with holiday homes. Bought a large bag of scallops from a local. Departed late afternoon for overnight crossing (50 miles) to Vaeroy, at the south east end of the Lofoten chain. Breeze picked up enough to sail at 4-5 Knots. A night watch on which the sun does not set is a wonderful thing, and crew had not yet learnt that one has to go to bed even if the sun is still up.
DAY 3: Exploration of Vaeroy. Arrived Vaeroy at 0500, and slept till about 10am. After a hearty brunch, we lowered the punt and had a run ashore. The punt is the wooden boat on the portside of the deck. It is lowered to/raised from the briny via a manually operated derrick. A very pleasant amble round a quiet village, full of the scent of wild flowers and dried fish. Vaeroy lives by fishing. During the 3 months of winter dark the inhabitants work the production chain of sea cod. During the summer they enjoy the three months of sunlight. In mid afternoon we motored out of the harbour and anchored in the bay. The prominent hill was climbed, the view enjoyed and photos taken.
DAY 4: Vaeroy to Reine 27 miles
An easy sail north-east on a port reach. Mascotte has no winches or sails controlled by buttons pressed in the cockpit, so once the crew had set up the main and staysail we had a very pleasant time of it for 4-5 hours. Just enjoy the sun and the breeze, build a nest in the ready foresails and read, and admire the increasing scale of the mountainous islands as we came up to the Lofoten Islands proper. Once in Reine harbour, we lowered the punt and had some time trials. We dined out that evening. Despite Katie's green orientation I'm afraid I elected to try out a whale steak. A rare treat, in every sense.
An easy sail north-east on a port reach. Mascotte has no winches or sails controlled by buttons pressed in the cockpit, so once the crew had set up the main and staysail we had a very pleasant time of it for 4-5 hours. Just enjoy the sun and the breeze, build a nest in the ready foresails and read, and admire the increasing scale of the mountainous islands as we came up to the Lofoten Islands proper. Once in Reine harbour, we lowered the punt and had some time trials. We dined out that evening. Despite Katie's green orientation I'm afraid I elected to try out a whale steak. A rare treat, in every sense.
DAY 5: Reine to Litlmolla 46 miles.
A longer days sail, of some 10 hours. The wind had shifted to the northwest, a little stronger, but constant. The island chain, protects the sea to the south from the Atlantic swell that can make the north coast heavy going. Time for some fishing an hour short of Litlmolla, but a surprisingly small catch for the time expended. Moored in a very calm bay.
A longer days sail, of some 10 hours. The wind had shifted to the northwest, a little stronger, but constant. The island chain, protects the sea to the south from the Atlantic swell that can make the north coast heavy going. Time for some fishing an hour short of Litlmolla, but a surprisingly small catch for the time expended. Moored in a very calm bay.
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The Fish Supper; Duration 01:40
Dining in Mascotte's Wardroom, riding at a quiet anchor in the bay off Litlmolla. Goujons of Ling to start, followed by grilled steaks of Cod and Ling. The wardroom and galley were Katie's domain, as were the many storage areas for food. Wine was a crew responsibility - my part of which (apart from the drinking thereof) was for 2 cases to be waiting at Oban as Huw sailed Mascotte from Falmouth to Bødø. Katie's variety and standard was always high. A Vegetarian by temperament, her offerings did much to open the eyes, even convert, the 4 x senior duffers. When not fixed in the galley she acted as 1st Mate. Clearly a better sailor and chef than myself. I rather regret teasing her with the Whale Steak I consumed the previous evening. Note: I have acted as Mascotte's chef myself. My first was a race from Falmouth to Fastnet - 30 hours at an angle. It is remembered for the Marmalade Soufflés I served at 2am as we passed the finish line, firmly ahead of the rest of the BCPCOA ( Bristol Channel Pilot Cutters Owners Association) fleet. |
DAY 6: Into Ofotfjord (Narvik Fjord) and squeeze into Valle bay. 42 miles.
Below: The final 5 miles IN, and the first 5 miles OUT the next day, was exciting sailing.
Expert use of Pilot, charts and sails by Huw.
Below: The final 5 miles IN, and the first 5 miles OUT the next day, was exciting sailing.
Expert use of Pilot, charts and sails by Huw.
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Valle was one of the most attractive anchorages Huw and Mark found. Quite a busy sail to work our way in. From my station on the foredeck there was a lot of chart and depth watching, and some exciting sailing through narrow, winding passages between islands. Once in we were treated to a large bay under a mountain of massive weight. Some legends attached to it, as I recall.
The media below are from the following morning. Blue sky, still water and a wonderful light filled the bay below the mountain. The bold went swimming |
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DAY 7: Back out of Valle, then head east into Ofotfjord and anchor at Evenes. 17 Miles
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Video: Sailing out of Valle and into Ofotfjord - 2min 15 secs
The video starts with Mascotte sailing west to get out of the Valle chicanes. The Balloon Jib (The Blooper) is launched, and she settles on a starboard broad reach in calm water. In the second half Mascotte is now headed east, towards Narvik. She is close hauled as we tack up the open Ofotfjord, The foresails used are the Staysail, and further out, at the end of the bowsprit, the No1 Jib. The green excrescence in the first shot is an inflatable plastic canoe. Very practical for larking about at anchor, but not in keeping with the historic leather, hemp and wood of the rest of the deck area. On this occasion the punt is being towed. |
DAY 8: Evenes to Narvik. 19 miles
We rowed the departing crew member ashore and watched his taxi depart for the nearby Evenes airport. Then an easy sail into Narvik, under a lowering cloud base and signs of approaching rain. Narvik was grey and hard as we sailed into the bay, with its iron ore terminals and Bulk Load Carriers either loading or waiting. Once moored in what was, I guess, one of the original old, small, docks, Duncan left for Trømsø, and his flights to join another boat in Sardinia. It then rained on and off for 2 days. Katie went foraging for the next week of fresh goods: I acted as bearer of said goods from stores back to the dock. Narvik was explored. A meal was taken ashore (£120 for 4 pizzas, drink and a small pud). Huw attended to the inevitable adjustments and repairs that a large boat requires.
DAY 9 & 10: In Narvik
DAY 11: West from Narvik, to Bognes. 45 miles
With Jonathan Cobb aboard, making a crew of 5, we set off under dry but cloudy skies. The first 35+ miles were due west, out of the Ofotford from Narvik, with a firm and constant wind from the south west. So it was close hauled, with reefs in the main, and the staysail up front. Mascotte's 50 tons settled at a consistent angle and we sailed, arrow like, for a good 6-7 hours. Then south into a new (for us) fjord complex south and to anchor near Bognes. My camera has nothing from this day.
With Jonathan Cobb aboard, making a crew of 5, we set off under dry but cloudy skies. The first 35+ miles were due west, out of the Ofotford from Narvik, with a firm and constant wind from the south west. So it was close hauled, with reefs in the main, and the staysail up front. Mascotte's 50 tons settled at a consistent angle and we sailed, arrow like, for a good 6-7 hours. Then south into a new (for us) fjord complex south and to anchor near Bognes. My camera has nothing from this day.
DAY 12: Explore local fjords. Anchor at Ulvik. 22 miles.
This was a day of sailing for the fun of it, rather than making passage. Mascotte glided past small settlements and anchored for lunch at the the end of a fjord, surrounded on 3 sides by mountains. The same mountains ambushed us with some unpredicted gusts, but they were well marked on the surface of the water. The day ended with a majestic entry to the bay at Ulvik, with 5 sails up. Grand finale of a 180 turn into wind, loss of way and all sails down. Satisfaction increased by residents of solitary house at entry to bay boating out to compliment us. Good chat with the natives: all apparently hale and hearty for a country not a full member of the EU. Bit of a roisterous session in the wardroom that night.
This was a day of sailing for the fun of it, rather than making passage. Mascotte glided past small settlements and anchored for lunch at the the end of a fjord, surrounded on 3 sides by mountains. The same mountains ambushed us with some unpredicted gusts, but they were well marked on the surface of the water. The day ended with a majestic entry to the bay at Ulvik, with 5 sails up. Grand finale of a 180 turn into wind, loss of way and all sails down. Satisfaction increased by residents of solitary house at entry to bay boating out to compliment us. Good chat with the natives: all apparently hale and hearty for a country not a full member of the EU. Bit of a roisterous session in the wardroom that night.
DAY 13: North across Ofotfjord, to Rinoya. 28 miles
This was a day to preposition for the passage up the narrow channel from Ofotfjord to Harstad. A gentle start to the day, sailing out of the shelter of Ulvik. Wind rose as we got into the wider fjord, with a rougher sea than previously encountered, Quite a blustery crossing, with more movement than Mascotte had shown so far. Planned charge into Rinoya bay had to be curtailed as we came upon fish farms and other markers. Huw found a sheltered spot. Once all sails, bits and nautical bobs, were secure we all went below fired up the wood stove, and got what was left of the scotch out of the locker. This needed to be rationed, given the price of spirits, both local and imported, in Norway. The wind blew itself out overnight, and the next day started calm and sunny, for a while anyway..
This was a day to preposition for the passage up the narrow channel from Ofotfjord to Harstad. A gentle start to the day, sailing out of the shelter of Ulvik. Wind rose as we got into the wider fjord, with a rougher sea than previously encountered, Quite a blustery crossing, with more movement than Mascotte had shown so far. Planned charge into Rinoya bay had to be curtailed as we came upon fish farms and other markers. Huw found a sheltered spot. Once all sails, bits and nautical bobs, were secure we all went below fired up the wood stove, and got what was left of the scotch out of the locker. This needed to be rationed, given the price of spirits, both local and imported, in Norway. The wind blew itself out overnight, and the next day started calm and sunny, for a while anyway..
DAY 14: The first day of working through the fjord that marks the western end of the Lofotens. Rinoya to Fjelldal. 30 miles.
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This was a demanding sail for Huw, who dealt with it with his customary sound anticipation and very effective course as we tacked our way into , and through, the passage from Rinoya to Harstad. It may be only 30 miles for a motor boat, but I reckon we must have done around 50 miles through the water, Once in the narrows the wind varied in strength and direction as the surrounding mountains had an effect. The video shows the first half of the voyage from to Fjelldal. In the second half things got rather lively as we responded to changing wind and the need to keep tacking between the sides of the fjord.
The 2 minute video gives a general impression of our morning's progress into the narrowing fjord, and shows Mascotte's solidity at various points on the reach. The three photos below are of the view from our anchorage in a small bay off the main passage. The small village in the 3rd is Fjelldal. |
Day 15: The second day of working through the fjord/passage that marks the western end of the Lofotens. Fjelldal to Harstad. 32 miles
This was the final day of sailing. Good progress in firm, but consistent wind, meant that we were off Harstad by early afternoon. So we carried on to the north for a few hours, just extending the pleasure and enjoyment of Mascotte as long as we could. Then into Harstad, and berth in the northern harbour. It was nice to receive so many enquiries and compliments (for Mascotte, not the crew) from people strolling along the quay in the evening.
Below left: A 360 panorama of the anchorage at Fjelldal in the morning.
Below left: Mascotte moves from its initial arrival on the outer jetty, to a point on the inner harbour at Harstad.
Below left: A 360 panorama of the anchorage at Fjelldal in the morning.
Below left: Mascotte moves from its initial arrival on the outer jetty, to a point on the inner harbour at Harstad.
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Day 16; Explore Harstad. Fast evening ferry to Trømsø, for flight back to UK the next day.
Harstad is the third largest town in Northern Norway, sheltered from, but with good access to the northern Atlantic. We took a bus north to Trondenes, hoping to visit the Adolf Guns. This is a sea facing emplacement of 4 x 16inch (40.6cm) guns taken from a battleship. One is, apparently, very well restored. Since they are in an Army Base, with restricted visiting, we were turned away. However, we did walk back to Trondenes Church. This is the world's northern-most surviving medieval building. There was a good museum about life this far north in early times. Even more interesting, and more moving, was the remains of, and memorial to, the prison camp for Russian POWs.
Harstad is the third largest town in Northern Norway, sheltered from, but with good access to the northern Atlantic. We took a bus north to Trondenes, hoping to visit the Adolf Guns. This is a sea facing emplacement of 4 x 16inch (40.6cm) guns taken from a battleship. One is, apparently, very well restored. Since they are in an Army Base, with restricted visiting, we were turned away. However, we did walk back to Trondenes Church. This is the world's northern-most surviving medieval building. There was a good museum about life this far north in early times. Even more interesting, and more moving, was the remains of, and memorial to, the prison camp for Russian POWs.
ENDPIECE. At the helm of Mascotte in the Lofoten Islands, Norway. 2019.
If the best adventures of my life are ever catalogued, this should be included.
If the best adventures of my life are ever catalogued, this should be included.
